Nozawa Onsen Ski & Ride Travel Guide
Picture a traditional Japanese village where steaming hot springs dot the narrow streets, and snow falls so consistently you might think you're living in a snow globe. Nozawa Onsen offers an enchanting mix of deep powder skiing and authentic Japanese culture that's increasingly rare to find. The resort boasts 297 hectares of skiable terrain, with runs ranging from wide groomers to powder-filled trees, and an impressive 800+ meters of vertical drop. Here you'll likely wake up to the sound of snow sliding off rooftops, start your day with a soak in one of 13 public hot springs (soto-yu), and then head up to explore terrain that averages 10+ meters of snow annually.
If you’d rather leave the spreadsheets and logistics to us so you can focus on the powder and ramen, check out our full-service Japan ski and snowboard travel packages.
Intro to Nozawa Onsen
In the mountains of Japan sits a picturesque village with narrow cobbled streets and wood-slatted buildings. Steam from public onsens swirls around softly glowing lanterns and rises past snow-capped rooftops. Following it upward, you see distant ridges dotted with trees and loaded with a heavy coat of freshly fallen snow. Welcome to Nozawa Onsen.
Set on the main island of Honshu, not too far from the hustle of major cities like Nagano and Tokyo, Nozawa Onsen exists in a space set away from time. This once-quiet hot spring retreat has slowly become one of the most popular ski resorts in all of Japan, but still clings fiercely to its idyllic past. Walking through the little town, you’ll find plenty of upscale amenities, and all of the accommodations necessary to host the swath of tourists that come year round from locations domestic and abroad. But the look and feel remains wonderfully rustic.
And of course, what draws all those visitors in the first place is the incredible skiing. The Nozawa Onsen Snow Resort offers a wide variety of skiing and snowboarding with consistent snowfall and varied terrain. From long winding low angle runs to steep tree pitches, and even some backcountry access and a terrain park, Nozawa is sure to have something for everyone. Finally, the town is famed for its annual Fire Festival, which draws visitors from around the world to witness a spectacle of flames steeped in ancient culture.
Getting to Nozawa Onsen
One benefit of skiing and snowboarding on Honshu as opposed to Hokkaido is that you’re never too far away from Tokyo. This makes transport to the ski areas much easier. After flying into Tokyo, you’ll have a handful of options for getting to Nozawa Onsen.First, and easiest, is to take a direct bus transfer from the airport. The Nagano Snow Shuttle offers direct transport from both Narita and Haneda airports right to Nozawa Onsen.
The next option is a fun cultural adventure all in itself. Catch a ride on the local train into the heart of Tokyo, then transfer to one of Japan's famous shinkansen. This bullet train will take you to Iiyama, where you can take a local bus or taxi into Nozawa. With the aid of Google Maps and the helpfully color-coded train lines, this journey is not too bad, and you get a scenic bullet train ride out of it to boot. The most adventurous part of this route is definitely navigating commuter train traffic into Tokyo while maneuvering a ski or snowboard bag. Checkout our guide on how to fly with skis & snowboards for more helpful tips.
Finally, there is the option to rent a car and drive yourself to Nozawa. However, the only time we would recommend this is if you are trying to do a larger ski road trip, as once you're in Nozawa, you won’t need a car (and it could actually be somewhat of a hassle to find parking). But even then, you’re probably better off without one. With the efficiency of Japanese public transportation, it’s a pretty doable journey to get from Nozawa Onsen to Myoko or Hakuba by bus or train.
Where to Ski in Nozawa Onsen
Compared to many Japanese ski areas, Nozawa Onsen Snow Resort has the distinct advantage of being the only show in town. While it can be fun to visit an area and explore all five of the different mom and pop ski resorts within driving distance, there’s a nice streamlined simplicity to showing up in town and knowing where you’re going to go ride everyday.
And thankfully, the expansive terrain at Nozawa Onsen has more than enough to keep any rider occupied. We love this resort as a family destination because of the lovely variety of terrain. Beginners will find a ton of gentle slopes to practice on, and one nice thing is that quite a bit of the beginner terrain sits at the top of the Nagasaka Gondola. As a result, they’re not stuck at the base of the hill all day, and can enjoy getting up high to take in the views (if it’s not snowing too heavily) and safely download the gondola back to the base at the end of the day.
Intermediate and expert skiers will be pleased to find that Nozawa actually has some pretty steep terrain. It’s worth noting that the whole resort is below treeline, and, in keeping with some of the more traditional Japanese ski areas, most of the tree runs are off limits. However, there are plenty of options carved out through the forest, including a few really nice steep lines where you can flirt with the trees at the edge of the run, making for some all-time laps when the snow is good. Another idiosyncrasy is that the resort doesn’t groom any of their black runs, so you’re either getting bottomless powder or moguls, with no in between.
At the top of the mountain is the “Self Responsibility Zone.” This treed bowl is serviced by two quad chairs, and, as the name suggests, is there for skiers and snowboarders to play in the glades at their own risk. It’s one of our favorite zones on the mountain, but it is a popular spot on powder days, so make sure to get here early for some of the best freshies of your life. Finally, at the edge of the Self Responsibility Zone, there are two backcountry gates, one going to each side of the resort boundaries. Which leads us to…
Nozawa Onsen's Gate System, Guides & Backcountry Access
For powder-hungry visitors, the backcountry gates will start to look pretty tempting the second the resort starts to get a bit tracked out. But we heavily advise against heading out of bounds on a whim. In addition to having proper training, partner, and avalanche gear, it’s important to know what you’re getting yourself into, especially in a place like Nozawa.
While the fact that much of the backcountry is obscured by trees might lull you into a false sense of stability, the deep snowpack and relatively steep slopes makes this an extremely avalanche prone backcountry, even on fairly well-anchored slopes.
Additionally, the terrain gets significantly more consequential right outside of the boundaries, especially out to skiers left of the resort, where the forest hides more than a few cliff drops and tight gullies. For some riders, that might sound like an appealing feature, and in the right situation it absolutely is. If you’re feeling the need to huck yourself into bottomless powder, the backcountry in Nozawa Onsen can give you what you need. But even the most daring of backcountry explorers should take caution. Some of the best freeride lines in the area are pretty hard to pick out from above, and there are a few places where choosing the wrong tree chute can quickly turn into finding yourself in a situation you definitely didn’t sign up for.
As a result, we definitely recommend hiring a guide to help you navigate the backcountry terrain out of the gates. There are a handful of guiding services that operate out of the village, and most offer catered services to fit any level of backcountry experience.
Important: You should always carry an avalanche beacon, shovel, and probe when travelling in avalanche terrain and know how to use them. Backcountry travel requires an acceptance of the risks involved (avalanches are not the only danger) and implies a willingness to take responsibility for educating oneself about these dangers and ways to mitigate them. We recommend that backcountry travelers hire a qualified guide and take a certified Avalanche Level One class or the equivalent, and practice the skills they learn there regularly with their partners.
Nozawa Onsen’s Legendary Snow
For many skiers and snowboarders, the name Japan is synonymous with powder. And for good reason too. Sitting in the middle of the ocean far north of the equator, the island nation has both moisture and cold in abundance. Coincidentally, those are the two main ingredients of powder!In particular, the main island of Honshu is blessed with big mountains that rise steeply from the Sea of Japan on the west coast, resulting in a quick transformation of moisture rich sea breeze into cold uplift and massive snowfall. In general, the resorts on Honshu get some of the deepest and most consistent skiable snowpacks in the world. While the snow on the northern island of Hokkaido gets hit with a blast of Arctic air that keeps it drier and lighter, there’s simply no competing with the sheer volume of snow that the Honshu resorts get.
Sitting just a bit set back from the coastline as compared to powder havens like Myoko, Nozawa Onsen gets somewhat more modest snow totals by Honshu standards. But by modest we mean somewhere in the realm of 400+ inches of snow a year. So yeah, that’s still pretty darn deep.
The Japow hype is real, and skiers and snowboarders in Nozawa Onsen can reasonably expect a few dumps and consistent refills throughout their visit. To get an idea of current snow conditions, check out the Nozawa Onsen Snow Report.
Best Time to Ski & Snowboard in Nozawa Onsen
This is an easy one for North American skiers and snowboarders. The ski season in Japan is more or less the same as it is over on this side of the puddle. Snow starts falling in December, piles up in January and February, and starts to taper off in March.The term “Japanuary” has started to pick up almost as much steam as the infamous “Japow,” and for good reason. By the time January rolls around, the base has built up and the powder faucet is open, and you can usually count on a consistent resupply of powdery goodness. However, even though it doesn’t have as catchy of a nickname, February in Nozawa Onsen is just as good. It has similar temps and precipitation totals, but there is an even deeper base and often slightly less crowds. Either of these months tend to give you the peak powder experience most people are looking for.
But if avoiding crowds is more of your goal, the months on either side of the peak powder season are still pretty spectacular. Early December is a bit riskier snow-wise, as the season may not have fully kicked off yet, but if it’s good, it’s great. By late March, you can count on there being far fewer other tourists, and, while you may not get quite as many powder days as in the thick of winter, you might even get a few sunny days in exchange.
One thing to look out for with Nozawa Onsen in particular is that right in the middle of every January, the town holds their annual fire festival. The Dosojin Fire Festival is a cultural event, pyrotechnic display, and community party all rolled into one that is held annually on January 15th. It is also an event that has gained some international fame, and as a result the village is inundated with visitors, making accommodation pricey and hard to find. If you are fine with a bit of a crowd and are psyched for the festivities, coming mid-Janurary will be a highlight of your trip for sure. But if that’s not something you’re seeking, it might be best to avoid those dates.
Nozawa Onsen Hotels - Where to Stay
One plus (or minus, depending on your perspective) to Nozawa Onsen is that it truly is an old mountain village. The streets are narrow, the buildings are rustic, and there’s not a single highrise hotel to be seen. But the accommodation options are plentiful, and, in our opinion, much more fun.Most of the accommodation in Nozawa Onsen is in traditional ryokan style inns. These Japanese bed and breakfasts have a uniquely homey feel, and generally have in house onsens and homemade meals available for purchase. Within the general category of ryokan, however, there is a wide range of comfort levels and price points available. While some ryokans offer the simple tatami floored rooms and shared baths we normally associate with the word, some have Western style beds, private onsen, and included (usually delicious) meals. Regardless of style, however, the ryokans generally offer communal rooms that make for really cool family experiences, set in a village that is perfect for all ages.
One of our favorite ryokans in the first category is Seisenso. In this traditional Japanese hotel, you can really tell that you are staying in a family run guesthouse. For those looking for a bit more luxury, we recommend Kiriya Ryokan. They offer rooms with either tatami mats or Western style beds, but both varieties have a touch of modern elegance.
Nozawa Onsen Restaurants - Where to Eat & Drink
As is only fitting for a village known for its onsens, the local delicacy from Nozawa is “onsen tamago,” or hot spring eggs! The central spring of the village, Ogama Onsen, is the source for the water that flows through all the many baths of Nozawa. But in Ogama itself, the waters are too hot for bathing. Instead, they are used for cooking. The onsen tamago is an egg that is soft boiled in the onsen water, and served with broth and soy sauce in many establishments around town. It has a unique flavor, a creamy consistency, and it is a must-try for anyone visiting the town. Another onsen-prepared delicacy is nozawana, a leafy green named after the town itself that is cooked in the onsens and pickled, and served in dumplings and onigiri.
In addition to the local delicacies, Nozawa Onsen is home to a wide variety of restaurants serving a full assortment of regional and national foods. Just walking through the main streets of the town, you will find a lovely assortment of cozy noodle houses and izakayas. Despite being such a small village, Nozawa Onsen has deep agricultural roots, and the availability of fresh ingredients and great food is really incredible.
Some of our favorite spots are Akebitei, where the chef/ proprietor whips up delicious okonomiyaki in an open kitchen, and Minato, a cute tavern that serves delicious sashimi. If you’re coming during the high season however (January and February), you may need a reservation for more popular main street restaurants, as the town gets busy with families. But for all the time we’ve spent in Nozawa, we have yet to have a bad meal, so if you can’t get into a certain restaurant, don’t sweat it. Part of the charm of Nozawa is simply wandering into a restaurant down some side street, and seeing what it has in store for you. Also, we definitely recommend having at least one dinner at your ryokan during your stay. The family style dining is a very fun and communal experience, and many of the ryokans serve excellent local food.
Finally, Nozawa Onsen, in our opinion, is one of the best Japanese resorts for apres. While it has a much different vibe than the Whistler-esque scene at Hakuba or Niseko, the fun of a night out in Nozawa is highlighted by low-key taverns, excellent drinks, and of course, a late night onsen to wrap things up. Two of our favorite places to start things off are the Craft Room and Neo Bar, both located right at the base of the gondola and perfect to spot by fresh off the slopes. From there, enjoy any of the charming hole in the wall sake bars, and once you’ve built up some courage, move on to one of several karaoke establishments in the village. After you’ve sung your heart out, either make your way to one of the public onsens, which stay open until midnight, or if you’re just not ready to call it a night, head over to Stay Bar, the go-to spot for late night shenanigans.
Just whatever you do, make sure you’re ready to wake up early for powder!
Things to Do in Nozawa Beyond Skiing & Snowboarding
The great thing about a trip to Nozawa Onsen is that simply wandering the village is an experience in itself. With an abundance of cute restaurants and bars, charming little side streets, and a natural onsen everytime you turn a corner, you can easily fill up a rest day just by walking around and taking in the sights.The most prevalent non-snowsport activity is of course the onsens — afterall, the area is named after them! There are 13 public baths throughout the village, and many have both indoor and outdoor components. They are free to use, but a small donation is encouraged. Especially if you’re taking a day off to let your legs recover for more powder riding, a trip (or two) to these restorative waters is practically mandatory.
The next big thing is very timing-dependent, but is probably the next biggest draw to Nozawa Onsen after the skiing. The Dosojin Fire Festival is held annually on January 15th, and is truly a spectacle to behold. During this celebration, villagers construct a wooden shrine and engage in a mock battle that ends in the structure being set aflame. It is a tradition with roots that date back to ancient Shinto practices, kept alive through the ages and served up with towers of fire. A unique cultural experience, plus the universal joy of watching big things catch on fire? Yes please. It’s a happy coincidence for skiers and snowboarders that the Fire Festival falls right in the middle of Japanuary, and those lucky enough to be present are in for a treat.
Lastly, if you’re looking to get out of the village a bit, a drive to see the snow monkeys is definitely worth a day trip. If you’ve ever seen a picture of snow monkeys hanging out in a hot spring, that was most likely the famous Japanese macaque in one of Nagano’s onsens. While snow monkeys are not super prevalent in the direct area around Nozawa Onsen, they are native to the area, and just a short drive away is the Jigokudani Monkey Park, where you can watch them thriving in their natural habitat. Day tours from Nozawa Onsen to Jigokudani are easily arranged at many hotels.
Should I bring my gear or rent there?
After all of the terrain questions are answered, the most common thing we get people asking us about Nozawa Onsen trips is: what skis or snowboard(s) should I bring? Is it even worth it to bring my own stuff?The short answer is, if you are asking this question, you should probably rent some gear there.
If you’re an advanced skier and you already have your own powder board or powder skis, you already know you’re going to bring them with you. You’ll definitely be the most comfortable on your own gear, and that comfort is always worth the extra hassle of dragging your big old ski bag through various forms of transportation (plus there’s nothing that really says adventure like the feeling of sticking out like a sore thumb, smiling your way through crowds of people commuting to work, trying not to bump anyone with your overstuffed bag). If you’re deciding between multiple pairs of skis, we’d definitely recommend bringing the fat ones, preferably if they have a beefy hybrid binding like the Shift or Kingpin on them. While you’ll mostly be riding lift-accessed terrain, there are some nice touring options available, and having the option to skin out of the ends of sidecountry zones is always nice.
But if you’re on the fence about making the gear that you have work, even if it’s not quite right, here’s our two cents: you are planning the powder trip of a lifetime. Sure it's possible to ride powder on an old flexed out park board. But it’s a whole lot more fun to do it on a big old directional swallow-tail. While unfortunately, our partner shop Rhythm doesn’t yet have a Nozawa Onsen branch, you’ll find plenty of ski and snowboard shops, most of which are fully stocked with powder-specific shapes.
Of course, the other option is to head on over to your favorite snowsports gear retailer and pick up a brand new pair of powder planks or a new pow board, and just ski as much powder as you can after you get home too.
Discover evoTrip Nozawa Onsen
✔ Deepest powder of your life
✔ Comfortable, high end accommodations
✔ Incredible food
✔ Fun nightlife
✔ Incredible cultural experiences
The only question left is: what’re you waiting for?
If the thought of organizing flights, transfers, hotels, lift tickets, rentals, and the whole shebang puts you in a state of crippling anxiety and you just don’t know where to start, we get it. International travel is a beast, and when you add in snowsports to the equation, the logistics only get trickier.
That’s why we put our heads together, talked to our local friends, organized a list of vendors, and assembled the ultimate Nozawa ski and snowboard trip!
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Vaun Mcaleer - evoTrip Japan Specialist
Vaun is a modern-day explorer who thrives on creating meaningful, transformative experiences for others in the outdoors. Hailing from the misty landscapes of Redmond, Washington, he has sought adventure in the world’s most exciting locations, from Vail and Jackson Hole to Japan and Australia in both his professional work as a guide and his personal explorations.
When he’s not out carving remote peaks, chasing waves or fly fishing, Vaun leverages his background in Business and Marketing to enrich experiences in action sports. His goal is always to create unforgettable memories with wonderful people, wherever he is on the journey.
Zack Sklar - Travel Writer
Zack Sklar is a nature and travel writer based in Western Washington. He has spent most of his life living in various ski towns across the Mountain West, but his passion for mountains has led him across the globe.
In between backyard explorations of the Cascades, he’s spent extended stints abroad, chasing untracked lines and untold stories from Chamonix to the Japanese Alps. He can be reached at zacksklar.com.