Myoko, Japan Ski & Ride Travel Guide
Tucked away in the Niigata Prefecture of Japan’s Honshu Island, Myoko Kogen refers to the mountainous region surrounding Mount Myoko. It consists of a handful of scattered little towns and picturesque ski resorts, and is home to one of the deepest snowpacks in Japan.
In addition to that, the Myoko region is known as a traditional onsen retreat for many in Japan, and that same vibe is still evident in town. In recent years, it’s gained popularity as a destination for powder seekers across the globe, but in our opinion, the two cultures have melded together into something beautiful rather than clashing with each other. You’ll find local backcountry guides enjoying a beer alongside international visitors at one of Akankura's many izakaya bars, and spry old grandmothers shoveling snow from their rooftops into onsen drains.
Finally, two other big draws to the area are the snow monkeys that live in the forests nearby, and the accessibility of the city of Nagano. The towns and resorts of Myoko are small, but the terrain is huge, the powder is plentiful, and there's a vibrant energy running through the region.
If you’d rather leave the spreadsheets and logistics to us so you can focus on the powder and ramen, check out our full-service Japan ski and snowboard travel packages.
Lay of the Land in Myoko
The Myoko area is centered aptly enough, around Mount Myoko. This once massive stratovolcano blew its top some 20,000 years ago, leaving behind a craggy crater with a central thumb-like summit that looms over the region. The mountain holds spiritual significance in some Buddhist teachings, and the onsen waters that flow from within are renowned throughout Japan. And of course, lining the outer slopes of the volcano are a series of wonderful little ski resorts with incredible snow and terrain.
At the foot of Mount Myoko is the town of Akakura, which is the main ski town for the region. It is small, but vibrant, starting to show the effects of Western ski tourism, but still anchored to its past as a quiet onsen getaway. As a result, it offers a nice blend of comfortable international travelability and “real Japanese” feel.
Right out of the town, the lifts of the Akakura Kanko and Akakura Onsen ski resorts climb the lower slopes of Mount Myoko. Just north of town sits the tiny Seki Onsen Resort. Wrapping around the base of the mountain to the southwest, you will pass by Ikenotaira Onsen before finally getting to Suginohara, the largest resort in the area.
Where to Ski in Myoko
With so many ski resorts in the Myoko Kogen area, it’s hard to know which one to pick. And part of the fun is that you don’t have to choose. Myoko has a little something to offer every kind of skier, from folks looking to cruise groomers and lift-accessed pow to those who are willing to earn their turns in search of steeps and fresh snow.
Suginohara
The big resort of the area is also the furthest one away from Akakura. Suginohara (aka 'Sugi') is the largest of the Myoko area resorts, but you wouldn’t know it from looking at the narrow boundaries on the trail map. What it lacks side to side, it more than makes up for with nearly 4,000 vertical feet of riding, setting the stage for some unforgettable, endless powder laps when the conditions line up.
But even when they don’t, Sugi is still one of the best spots to be. The grooming crew does a great job, which means even intermediate skiers can enjoy long fun laps. Plus, they even have a terrain park, so those inclined can dial in their tricks while they wait for the next dump. When the snow inevitably does come, backcountry skiers and snowboarders with a taste for the extreme can test themselves against Sugi’s incredible sidecountry. While the terrain inbounds is mostly long, fun and playful, even off-piste, just outside of the boundaries, there are some serious exposures, big cliffs, and challenging terrain.
Ikenotaira Onsen
Heading back towards town from Suginohara, you’ll find the next resort sitting on the other end of the spectrum. Ikenotaira Onsen Ski Resort is as mellow and uncrowded as you can find in Myoko. It’s the perfect place to learn without the pressure of having too many folks around, but if you’re here to ski fun and challenging terrain, you might be okay skipping this one.
Akakura Onsen and Akakura Kanko
Akakura Onsen and Akakura Kanko are two resorts that can be skied interconnectedly right from town. You can buy standalone lift tickets to either area, or one ticket that lets you ski both. The Onsen side contains mostly low-angle, beginner terrain, as opposed to the Kanko side ('Akakan' as the locals call it), which has some steeper pitches as well as accessible side country. However, Akakura Onsen contains the only lifts that get you right out of town, so usually it’s worth springing the extra couple yen for the combined pass. As a whole, the mountains are much mellower and lower elevation than Sugi, but they still offer some great tree skiing, and they tend to be less crowded despite the fact that they're right in town.
Seki Onsen
Finally, the smallest resort in the area, and the only one on the north side of Akakura, is Seki Onsen. This tiny little resort has only two chairs, and hardly any groomed terrain, but it does have one big thing going for it. Somehow, Seki gets even more snow than the rest of the very snowy Myoko Kogen, which means that it gets a truly wild amount of snow. When all else fails, head to Seki for some phenomenal powder laps in the trees. Even besides the snow, however, Seki is a super cool spot. The little village has a very traditional Japanese onsen feel, and the resort itself has been family owned and run forever. If you’re there on a slow day, you might see dad or grandma bumping chairs at the bottom lift.
Beyond these core Myoko Kogen ski resorts, the area also serves as a great staging point for further adventures. Many people stay in Akukura and venture out to ski nearby Madarao for a day, or venture on to Hakuba or Nozawa Onsen to extend their trip.
Suginohara
The largest Myoko resort, with nearly 4,000ft of vertical terrain. It also has some of the best sidecountry and backcountry access in Myoko.Akakura Onsen / Akakura Kanko
The two resorts that can be skied interconnectedly right from town. They tend to be less crowded than the other resorts but they mostly offer mellower terrain.Seki Onsen
A tiny resort with only two chairs but a whole lot of local character. It has almost no groomed runs and gets more snow than any other resort in Myoko - so basically the most snow in Japan.Ikenotaira Onsen
The most mellow and uncrowded resort in Myoko, making it a great place for those looking to learn but not as fun for more advanced skiers.Myoko Beyond the Gates
The main backcountry access points in the area are off the lifts at Suginohara and Akakura Myoko. Both places have popular backcountry with super fun touring and sidecountry options for riders with avalanche gear, training, current local knowledge, a partner, and a plan. Unfortunately, both can get somewhat crowded in the more commonly skied zones.
Suginohara Backcountry
Out of Suginohara, the main options are all off the top lift. From there, you can either ski a variety of lines that take you back up to the resort, or tour up to the crater rim to enjoy some incredible views and a plethora of skiing options.
Both options come with a warning. These zones contain hidden cliffs, narrow chutes and closeout lines in addition to the normal high avalanche danger, half buried vines, and deep gullies that we normally associate with Japanese backcountry riding. In particular there is a tantalizing chute section lookers left of the resort that is visible from town and accessible with a short tour that is notorious for luring foreigners into sticky situations. We definitely recommend hiring a guide for the day to help you figure out the complexities of these zones.
Akakura Myoko Backcountry
Out of Akakura Myoko, you once again have the option of either touring up to the crater rim or skiing fall-line parallel to the resort boundary. The highpoint of the rim on this part of Mount Myoko is called Maeyama, and a tour from the Akakura Onsen side up to the peak offers some of the most mellow, but crowded backcountry skiing in the area, with nice tree skiing back down along your hiking route into the resort. The options from the Akakan side are a bit spicier, as there is a huge terrain trap just to skiers right that is easy to get sucked into, and some potential river crossings if you take the wrong route. Again, the complexity of the terrain here is in sharp contrast to the mellow resort skiing just beside it, and it’s easy to get taken by surprise if you don’t go in with your plan dialed. And again, we definitely recommend hiring a guide (as well as, everyone say it with me: beacon, shovel, probe, training, partner, plan).
These two spots are just the tip of the iceberg when it comes to Myoko Kogen backcountry terrain. There are vast networks of sidecountry and touring lines, and even a few backcountry huts tucked away in the mountains here. For an adventurous skier or snowboarder, the region offers a ton to explore.
Important: You should always carry an avalanche beacon, shovel, and probe when travelling in avalanche terrain and know how to use them. Backcountry travel requires an acceptance of the risks involved (avalanches are not the only danger) and implies a willingness to take responsibility for educating oneself about these dangers and ways to mitigate them. We recommend that backcountry travelers hire a qualified guide and take a certified Avalanche Level One class or the equivalent, and practice the skills they learn there regularly with their partners.
Myoko's Legendary Snow
Ever heard of a little thing called Japow? Well if not, here’s the TLDR: Japan has the deepest snow in the world. Which only raises the question, where is the deepest snow in Japan? Well it’s hard to get a straight answer on this one, as the snow reporting in Japan is a bit notoriously unreliable, especially once you look towards the hundreds of tiny local resorts, most of which don’t even keep track. But if we had to pick (backed up of course by some nebulous scientific studies), we’d say Myoko.
Sitting in the Niigata Prefecture just off the Sea of Japan, the moisture flows right into the massive Japanese Alps and turns into the stuff of dreams. Depending on your source, the annual snowfall for the Myoko region is anywhere from 13-17 meters. Just as a point of comparison, that’s about two full winters of snow in Colorado by the lowest estimate. If you are coming to Japan for free refills all day everyday, Myoko is one of the best bets for you. Trust us, it’s deep.
Best Time to Ski & Snowboard in Myoko
This is an easy one for North American skiers and snowboarders. The ski season in Japan is more or less the same as it is over on this side of the puddle. Snow starts falling in December, piles up in January and February, and starts to taper off in March.
The term “Japanuary” has started to pick up almost as much steam as the infamous “Japow,” and for good reason. By the time January rolls around, the base has built up and the powder faucet is open, and you can usually count on a consistent resupply of powdery goodness. However, even though it doesn’t have as catchy of a nickname, February in Myoko is just as good. It has similar temps and precipitation totals, but there is an even deeper base and often slightly less crowds. Either of these months tend to give you the peak powder experience most people are looking for.
But if avoiding crowds is more of your goal, the months on either side of the peak powder season are still pretty spectacular. Early December is a bit riskier snow-wise, as the season may not have fully kicked off yet, but if it’s good, it’s great. By late March, you can count on there being far fewer other tourists, and, while you may not get quite as many powder days as in the thick of winter, you might even get a few sunny days in exchange.
Getting to Myoko
One benefit of skiing and snowboarding on Honshu as opposed to Hokkaido is that you’re never too far away from Tokyo. This makes transport to the ski areas much easier. After flying into Tokyo, you’ll have a plethora of options for getting to Myoko.
Shinkansen Bullet Train
The first option is a fun cultural adventure all in itself. Catch a ride on the local train into the heart of Tokyo, then transfer to one of Japan's famous shinkansen. This bullet train will take you to the city of Nagano, where you can catch another local train to Myoko Kogen, and then catch a taxi into town.
With the aid of Google Maps and the helpfully color-coded train lines, this journey is not too bad, and you get a scenic bullet train ride out of it to boot. The most adventurous part of this route is definitely navigating commuter train traffic into Tokyo while maneuvering a ski or snowboard bag. Hot tip: get something with wheels.
On the other side of the coin, it also is possible to navigate the local trains the whole way and get to Myoko without the pricier shinkansen ticket, but this requires some “experts only” travel skills.
Shuttle
Alternatively if you’re fine with spending a bit of extra money, it’s possible to arrange a shuttle right from the airport to Akakura, which is by far the simplest method. The Nagano Snow Shuttle offers direct transport from both Narita and Haneda airports right to Myoko Kogen.
One thing to note is that all of these methods leave you in Myoko without a car. For the most part, this is totally fine. The town of Akukura is very walkable, and the outlying ski resorts are all accessible by a bus line. However, a car does have some advantages in this regard. The bus line runs somewhat inconsistently, and a car does free you up a bit not having to rely on it. But it’s also extra money to rent one, and extra hassle to have to deal with on the day to day. A final bit of food for thought: in our Myoko evoTrip, we offer private transport not just from the airport to town, but also from town to the various mountains every day of the trip. Just sayin’.
Bus
The easiest way, however, is by bus. Not only will it save you a few yen versus the train option, but the bus will also take you straight to Hirafu Welcome Center.
Myoko Hotels - Where to Stay
For most skiers and snowboarders visiting the Myoko Kogen region, the town of Akukura is home sweet home. This little ski town is, in our mind, one of the best examples of old-time Japanese feel with just a comfortable touch of Westernization to give it a good ski bum flavor and ease of international travel.
It is worth noting that each of the ski areas we’ve discussed has its own little town at the base, and there are accommodation options at each of them. Many of these are super cute traditional villages, with great onsen cultures and small town feel. For the most part, however, the further out you get from Akukura, the harder it is to navigate as a gaijin who doesn’t speak Japanese.
Within Akukura, you’ll find a ton of Western-style lodges and Japanese style ryokan, many of which come with onsen filled with the legendary waters of Mount Myoko. For our Myoko evoTrip, we stay at Morino Lodge, which we love for its outdoor onsen, communal hangout area, and the fact that it’s right across the street from the slopes. Another local favorite is JapowHouse, which now has two locations in town, as well as a restaurant. The proprietor, Kimi, has cultivated an incredible core ski culture vibe, and also runs his guiding service out of the lodge, offering backcountry ski tours to guests and non-guests alike.
The whole town is pretty walkable, with easy access to the lifts of Akakura Onsen, and to the main strip of restaurants and bars.
Myoko Restaurants - Where to Eat & Drink
Despite being such a small town, we’re pretty stoked on the food and beverage options available in Akukura. There is a good selection of noodle houses, as well as shabu shabu (Japanese hot pot), sushi, and some burgers and other Western fare. One of our favorite restaurants is K. Kitchen, which serves up some incredible Japanese curry.
And of course, you couldn’t talk about Myoko food without giving the obligatory mention of Kebab Shop 501. This little food truck makes a darn good kebab, and has a line out the door to prove it.
If you’re in the mood for a bit of an apres scene, Akukura won’t disappoint on that end either. The main strip is littered with izakaya (like a Japanese tavern, think dive-bar but with better food), including local favorites Popcornand SkateBar. SkateBar is a fun spot with a lively crowd of ski bums and a skate ramp, and nearby the nearby Popcorn bar is the go-to late night spot featuring, you guessed it, free popcorn!
If you're more in the mood for a classy cocktail than a late night party,Grape and Grain and Full Circle are two lovely options.
Things to Do in Myoko Beyond Skiing & Snowboarding
For us, one of the best things about Myoko is that it’s so much more than a ski and snowboard destination. The countless onsens dotting the mountain draw visitors year round, and the proximity to Nagano means you’re only ever a quick bus or train ride away from an incredibly ancient seat of Japanese culture. Also, there’s monkeys!
See the Japanese Macaque Monkeys
If you’ve ever seen a picture of snow monkeys hanging out in a hot spring, that was most likely the famous Japanese macaque in one of Nagano’s onsens. It’s a very unique feature of the environment, and one that you don't even have to go out of your way to witness. Just driving between resorts in Myoko, you’re bound to come across a troupe of snow monkeys crossing the road en route to one of their secret private onsens. If you’re like us and just can’t get enough of these awesome little dudes, it’s worth the day trip past Nagano to the Jigokudani Monkey Park, where you can watch the monkeys thriving in their native habitats.
Explore Nagano
While you’re on the way to Nagano, you might as well take in some of the incredible cultural sites the city has to offer. Some of the most notable destinations are Zenko-ji, an ancient Buddhist temple, Togakushi, a series of Shinto shrines tucked away in a dense cedar grove, and Matsushiro, a large Edo-period castle complex.
Myoko Onsens
If you’re not up for the trip to the big city, the main extracurricular activity right in the Myoko area is simply exploring the onsen culture. Almost every hotel in the area has their own onsen, which are usually available to non-guests for a small fee. Additionally, there are public baths with both indoor and outdoor sites, perfect for healing tired bodies in between a few days of non-stop shredding. When visiting the onsens, however, it’s important to remember that this is an ancient traditional practice. You’re not just going to the hot tub in the hotel lobby. Take the time to learn about the traditions and etiquette so you can enjoy these special places respectfully.
Myoko Ski & Snowboard Rentals
After all of the terrain questions are answered, the most common thing we get people asking us about Myoko ski trips is: what skis or snowboard should I bring? Is it even worth it to bring my own stuff?
The short answer is, if you are asking this question, you should probably rent some gear there.
If you’re an advanced skier and you already have your own powder board or powder skis, you already know you’re going to bring them with you. You’ll definitely be the most comfortable on your own gear, and that comfort is always worth the extra hassle of dragging your big old ski bag through various forms of transportation (plus there’s nothing that really says adventure like the feeling of sticking out like a sore thumb, smiling your way through crowds of people commuting to work, trying not to bump anyone with your overstuffed bag). If you’re deciding between multiple pairs of skis, we’d definitely recommend bringing the fat ones, preferably if they have a beefy hybrid binding like the Shift or Kingpin on them. While you’ll mostly be riding lift-accessed terrain, there are some nice touring options available, and having the option to skin out of the ends of sidecountry zones is always nice.
But if you’re on the fence about making the gear that you have work, even if it’s not quite right, here’s our two cents: you are planning the powder trip of a lifetime. Sure it's possible to ride powder on an old flexed out park board. But it’s a whole lot more fun to do it on a big old directional swallow-tail. While unfortunately, our Japan-based partner shop Rhythm doesn’t yet have a Myoko branch, you’ll find plenty of ski and snowboard shops lining the main street of Akakura, most of which are fully stocked with powder-specific shapes.
Of course, the other option is to head on over to your favorite snowsports gear retailer and pick up a brand new pair of powder planks or board, and just ski as much powder as you can after you get home too.
Okay, so Myoko sounds pretty awesome, right? Untracked powder, small town vibes, snow monkeys, bars with free popcorn, what’s not to love? What’s that, dragging your ski bag through three different kinds of public transport during Tokyo rush hour doesn’t sound like fun? You don’t don’t want to walk your skis to take the bus everyday to get from your far-flung Akakura hotel out to Sugi (and potentially miss first tracks)? Don’t worry, we feel you.
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Vaun Mcaleer - evoTrip Japan Specialist
Vaun is a modern-day explorer who thrives on creating meaningful, transformative experiences for others in the outdoors. Hailing from the misty landscapes of Redmond, Washington, he has sought adventure in the world’s most exciting locations, from Vail and Jackson Hole to Japan and Australia in both his professional work as a guide and his personal explorations.
When he’s not out carving remote peaks, chasing waves or fly fishing, Vaun leverages his background in Business and Marketing to enrich experiences in action sports. His goal is always to create unforgettable memories with wonderful people, wherever he is on the journey.
Zack Sklar - Travel Writer
Zack Sklar is a nature and travel writer based in Western Washington. He has spent most of his life living in various ski towns across the Mountain West, but his passion for mountains has led him across the globe.
In between backyard explorations of the Cascades, he’s spent extended stints abroad, chasing untracked lines and untold stories from Chamonix to the Japanese Alps. He can be reached at zacksklar.com.