Think of them as tread for your skis or splitboard. Or little flat chairlifts. Climbing skins are adhesive-backed pieces of fabric that stick to your bases and allow you to ascend snowy terrain quickly and gracefully. Held on by a combination of glue and mechanical hardware, they have tiny fibers pointing backward to prevent sliding down the hill while allowing you to glide forward. With the right bindings and technique, properly prepared skins will get you up most slopes in the backcountry and open up a new world of skiable terrain.
Back in the day, climbing skins were actually made of seal skin (hence the name) but now are composed of some combination of nylon and/or mohair (a natural fiber that comes from Angora goats - no mo's were sheared in the making of this product).
The differences are subtle, and once you learn basic skinning technique, you’ll be able to make any of them work in most conditions. If in doubt, it’s safer to err on the side of more grip – you might be slightly slower, but you’ll still get there.
There are many styles of tip and tail hardware. Most skins include hardware that is made to fit a variety of tip and tail shapes, but there are some skins out there that rely on a specifc ski with a compatible attatchment system (some older K2's and newer 4FRNT's have a hole drilled into the ski to accept proprietary skins), so that is something to watch out for. Other than that, most hardware styles, whether they feature clips, loops, or hooks, should work on any ski or snowboard. Just don't try ski skins on a splitboard, or snowboard skins on your skis, or your gonna have a bad time. Many randonnée racers (think people wearing Spandex) use a stretchy tip attachment with no tail hardware at all for lighter weight and speedier transitions. But for general touring (Spandex optional) we definitely recommend tail hardware of some kind - it can save your day if your skin glue fails.
It’s important to pick the right width climbing skin so you can have good control of your skis or splitboard, and still get great traction. Climbing skins are typically sold by their width, which listed in millimeters in the product description. To get the right width climbing skins, find the widest part of your skis (usually this is at the tip) and subtract 5-6 millimeters to arrive at the desired skin width. Your goal is to cover all of the plastic base material on the bottom of your skis, but leave the metal edges bare. This gives you maximum grip going uphill, but still lets you to edge on hard snow. When in doubt, go a little bit wider - you'll be trimming the skins down to the exact shape of your skis anyways.
Your skins should cover the entire base with just the edges showing at the sides
Some skins are cut to a specific length, but require that you trim the sides to match your skis’ sidecut. Skins that are pre-cut to length will often have tip and tail hardware already installed, which can save you some time. If not, you will normally have to cut the skin to the proper length and attach either the tip or tail hardware before you trim the width.
For more information on skin sizing, check out our guide on how to choose the right size climbing skins.
Custom cutting your own skins is easy, just take your time and read the instructions. A cutter is almost always provided in the box with the basic directions. A single-edged razor blade also works well.
Learn how to cut your climbing skins with our How to Trim / Cut Ski Climbing Skins guide.
A number of manufacturers make pre-cut skins to match their own planks. This is especially common with snowboards. If you choose this option, simply make sure you order the right model and length. These skins will fit their corresponding ski or splitboard model exactly, and have all the hardware already installed.
Climbing skins are built to be resilient to stand up to the rigors of backcountry travel, so as a result, they're pretty easy to maintain.
Storing your skins properly, both in between tours and over the summer, will add to their longevity. As a rule of thumb, always dry your skins after use, and store them with the glue side stuck together. below are some more detailed tips.
If you've been having trouble with snow clumping up on the bottoms of your skins, there are commercial rub-on and spray products (like Nikwax Ski Skin Proof) that can help you out. These products are best applied while the skins are warm and dry, so you should use them at home, before you leave on your trip. Some experienced backcountry skiers and rando racers will even hot wax and brush their skins much like waxing their skis. Check out our guide to waxing climbing skins for more.
We recommend that backcountry travelers take an AIARE Level One class or equivalent and practice the skills they learn there regularly with their partners. Here are some great resources for avalanche safety education:
— American Institute for Avalanche Research and Education
— American Avalanche Association
— Northwest Weather and Avalanche Center
— Avalanche Canada
You should carry an avalanche beacon, shovel and probe when travelling in avalanche terrain and know how to use them. Backcountry travel requires an acceptance of the risks involved (avalanches are not the only danger) and implies a willingness to take responsibility for educating oneself about these dangers and ways to mitigate them.
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