These days it is pretty standard to have a double wrap-around Velcro cuff in order to add extra strength and security to your connection. Key pockets have been implemented into some cuffs and are a good option for warm water city surfers that need a place to put their car key.
Some leashes have a swivel feature at their attachment point to the cuff that allows the leash to spin and twist without the rider, preventing tangles that can trip up your feet. It is up to you to decide whether you prefer a one or two bearing swivel, or none at all.
The rail saver is the fabric that attaches the cord to the surfboard. Its job is to provide a secure connection and not put too much strain on the rail. The wider and longer the fabric, the more it will protect the rail when you fall off the board and the cord is taut. While longer and wider rail savers may offer more protection, they also create more drag on the water’s surface. It is a matter of personal preference whether you value decreased drag or increased rail protection more.
Ranging from 4’ for a grom board to a whopping 12’ for your longest longboard or SUP, there are many different leash lengths to choose from. The length of leash that is right for you will depend on the length of your board and your ability level. A leash should be equal in length to or slightly longer than the board it will be used on. This means that you should not be using the same leash on a shortboard as a longboard and vice versa.
If your board is in-between sizes, we recommend you round up to the next closest size. Sometimes beginners like to round up as much as 1’ to ensure they will be far away from their board when tumbling through the surf. Then again, one should be aware that this increases the “bail radius” of your board, meaning you are giving your board more reach to potentially hit another surfer. Length is key: a leash that is too thick or long will add unnecessary drag in the water and slow you down; a leash that is too short is more likely to cause you to fall on your board or for the board to rebound and hit you after the leash is fully stretched.
There are two common leash thicknesses, often referred to as competition leashes and regular leashes. Competition leashes are usually around 3/16ths of an inch thick while a regular leash will be closer to 5/16ths of an inch thick. For all you metric users out there, that’s roughly 4.7mm and 8mm, respectively. When deciding on thickness you should consider the length of your board, wave height, and your surfing experience and ability level.
These are thinner because in a competition setting, it is most important to reduce drag. Comp leashes tangle less than regular leashes due to their thinner profile and are less likely to wrap around legs or fins while waiting for waves in the lineup. Everyone has a different opinion of what wave height warrants a regular leash as opposed to the sleek competition leashes, but in general, a proficient surfer using a board under 7’ should be able to use a competition leash everywhere.
In general, "regular" leashes are more durable due to their thickness. We encourage beginners and big wave riders to use regular leashes in order to reduce breakage caused by frequent falls or more powerful, bigger waves.
Ankle leashes are the most widely used style for several reasons. Most surfers agree that the ankle is the most comfortable spot to attach a leash, especially when paddling, and it also allows you to quickly “pull back” to your board if you crash. However, because the attachment is low on the leg, there is a higher chance for entanglement when compared to calf leashes.
Calf leashes are almost always used in conjunction with a longboard or SUP. The higher attachment point is ideal for surfers who walk their board a lot and want fewer tangles and less drag in the water, but they may be less comfortable and not quite as easy to “pull back” to your board in the water.
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